An Overture
The Cilento Coast, south of Salerno, is repeatedly billed as the Amalfi Coast's "lesser-visited cousin" — "equal beauty and a fraction of the crowd." It combines sandy beaches and sun-bleached towns with the UNESCO-listed Greek temples at Paestum and the vast Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park inland. The main bases are Agropoli, Santa Maria di Castellabate, and Palinuro. It rewards travellers with a car who want Campanian coast and Magna Graecia history without Amalfi prices and congestion.
Top Things to Do
Paestum
Three exceptionally preserved ancient Greek temples (the Temple of Neptune/Hera II, the Temple of Hera I or "Basilica," and the Temple of Athena/Ceres, dating to ~450 BC) plus the Roman forum and an on-site museum; UNESCO-listed. Plan 2–3 hours.
Getting there — car-free on the Naples–Salerno–Reggio regional line: trains stop at Paestum station, a short walk from the ruins; check hours and buy a guidebook at the booth.
Santa Maria di Castellabate
A pretty seaside old town and beaches — the setting for the film Benvenuti al Sud.
Getting there — ~15 km south of Agropoli: by car, or car-free via the train to Agropoli-Castellabate station and a connecting local bus down to the coast.
Agropoli
A harbour town with a hilltop old centre and castle — a practical, well-connected base for the northern Cilento.
Getting there — directly on the Naples–Salerno–Reggio rail line at Agropoli-Castellabate station, or by car off the A2/E45.
Palinuro
Sea caves and the dramatic Cape Palinuro coastline; boat trips run to the Grotta Azzurra of the Cilento.
Getting there — in the southern Cilento, best by car; car-free, take the coastal train to Pisciotta-Palinuro station, then a local bus to the village and boats from the harbour.
Walking Tours
Paestum Archaeological Walk
Walk the sacred way past the Temple of Hera I, the magnificent Temple of Neptune, and the Temple of Athena, through the Roman forum to the on-site museum and its Tomb of the Diver frescoes.
Santa Maria di Castellabate Seafront
Stroll the seafront and old harbour, then climb the lanes to the medieval Castello dell'Abate above Castellabate village for views over the bay and Punta Licosa.
Agropoli Old Town & Castle
Climb from the harbour up through the hilltop centro storico's lanes and the old gate to the Aragonese castle, with sweeping views down the Cilento coast.
Day Trips & Beyond
Certosa di San Lorenzo, Padula
A vast UNESCO-listed Carthusian monastery inland in the Vallo di Diano — one of the largest in Europe. Reached by car, or car-free by regional bus from Salerno toward Padula.
SearchCilento & Vallo di Diano National Park
Mountain villages, gorges, and hiking inland from the coast — best explored by car, with marked trails from villages such as Roscigno and the Bussento gorges.
SearchSalerno & the Amalfi Coast
To the north, within reach for a contrast day — Salerno by the coastal train (~30–40 min from Agropoli), then ferry or bus onto the Amalfi Coast.
SearchHidden Gems
The Coast Itself
The coast itself is the gem: near-Amalfi scenery with far fewer tourists, especially outside July–August.
SearchSea Caves Around Palinuro
Boat trips slip into the grottoes around Cape Palinuro, including the Cilento's own Blue Grotto.
Getting there — boats depart Palinuro harbour; reach Palinuro by car, or car-free by coastal train to Pisciotta-Palinuro plus a local bus to the port.
SearchQuiet Sandy Beaches
The long sandy beaches around Agropoli and Castellabate offer the open, gentle shoreline the cliff-bound Amalfi Coast lacks.
Getting there — reach Agropoli or Castellabate by the coastal train, then a short local bus or walk to the beaches; a car gives access to the quieter coves.
SearchFood & Dining
Signature Dishes
Where to Eat
Where to Stay
- Mid-range · €€
- Farm stays
- Luxury · €€€€
- Mid-range
Tip — A car opens up the spread-out beaches and the national park; agriturismo farm stays inland near Paestum let you buy mozzarella straight from the dairy.
Practical Notes
Getting There
- Car recommended: The coast and national park are poorly served by transit; from Sorrento/Amalfi it is ~2 hours' drive (faster inland via Pompeii + the E45/A2 than along the Amalfi Drive).
- By train: The Naples–Salerno–Reggio line stops at Agropoli, Paestum, and other coastal towns for car-free travellers.
Getting Around
- Drive: Beaches and the national park are spread out.
- Boats: Boat tours cover the Palinuro sea caves.
When to Visit
- Timing: Quieter than Amalfi even in summer, but July–August is still busy at the beaches; May–June and September are ideal.
- Paestum: Best early or late to avoid midday heat on the open archaeological site.
Costs
- Better value: Costs are well below the Amalfi Coast for comparable scenery.
Notable Insights
Critic Voices
- Amalfi's cousin: Adventures of Lil' Nicki frames the Cilento as the "lesser-visited cousin" of Amalfi with "equal beauty and a fraction of the crowd," recommending bases at Agropoli, Castellabate, and Palinuro.
Don't Miss
- Magna Graecia: Earth Trekkers and The Geographical Cure both fold Paestum's Greek temples into the southern itinerary.