Atlas of the Italian South Basilicata · Italy

Matera

The unforgettable cave city of the Sassi — a honey-coloured warren of rock-cut dwellings and churches, a 2019 European Capital of Culture and a James Bond filming location.

Region
Basilicata, Italy
Best Season
Late Apr–May · Sep–Oct
Recommended Stay
Two nights
Getting There
~1 hr from Bari (car / train)
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An Overture

Matera is the single most distinctive destination in the south — a honey-coloured warren of cave dwellings (the Sassi) and rock-cut churches carved into a ravine, claimed as one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited settlements (cited at 9,000+ years). Once branded "the shame of Italy" for its 20th-century poverty, it was reborn as a 2019 European Capital of Culture and a global icon after appearing in the James Bond film No Time to Die (2021). Today it offers atmospheric cave hotels, ravine hikes, and a deep sense of place. Two nights are recommended; the Sassi are car-free, so park outside and explore on foot.

Top Things to Do

Sassi

The Two Sassi Districts

Wander Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano via staircases and lanes past ~3,000 cave houses and ~150 rock churches (UNESCO-listed). A 2-hour guided walking tour helps decode them.

Cave Home

Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario

A restored cave home and museum showing 18th–19th-century life, including the "mangers" shared with donkeys and pigs.

Rock Church

Santa Maria de Idris

A 10th-century rock church on a hilltop spur with medieval frescoes and superb Sassi views; a bell-tower climb is available.

Cathedral

Matera Cathedral

Entered from a side street; an intricate interior, frescoes, and a cave-style nativity — climb the bell tower for gorge views.

Viewpoints

The Belvederes

Piazza Duomo, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Piazza San Francesco, and the Strada Panoramica dei Sassi for the classic panoramas over the cave city.

Museums

The Museums

MUSMA (contemporary sculpture in caves), Museo Nazionale Ridola (archaeology), and the medieval/modern art museum.

Walking Tours

The Two Sassi Circuit

~3 km · steep stone steps · half a day

The essential loop: from Piazza Vittorio Veneto descend into Sasso Barisano, climb to the Duomo, then drop through Sasso Caveoso past Santa Maria de Idris and the Casa Grotta — a maze of staircases and rock churches.

Walk in Google Maps

Belvedere & Strada Panoramica

~2 km · gentle · 1.5 hours

Link the great viewpoints — Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Duomo, and along the Strada Panoramica dei Sassi — for the postcard panoramas across the cave city and gorge.

Walk in Google Maps

James Bond Filming Locations

~1.5 km · stepped · 1.5 hours

Trace the No Time to Die chase through the Sassi along Via D'Addozio and Via Muro, with the Piazza San Pietro Caveoso rooftops where Bond's Aston Martin spun.

Walk in Google Maps

Day Trips & Beyond

Across the ravine

Murgia Materana Park

Hike the ravine opposite the Sassi for the best head-on Matera views and more cave churches. On foot, descend the gravina footpath and climb the far side (~1 hr each way), or drive to the Belvedere di Murgia Timone; a seasonal shuttle also runs.

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~30 min away

Gravina in Puglia

The dramatic bridge featured in the Bond film's opening chase. ~30 minutes by car, or car-free by regional train from Matera (change at Altamura).

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~1 hr 15 away

Castelmezzano & Pietrapertosa

The Lucanian Dolomites villages, ~1 hr 15 min west — the "Flight of the Angel" zipline pair. A car is essentially required (mountain transit is minimal).

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En route east

Altamura & the Itria Valley

Within reach en route east toward Alberobello — Altamura for its famous bread and cathedral, then Puglia's trulli country. Altamura is on the regional rail line; the Itria Valley is best by car.

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Hidden Gems

Sunset Drinks Over the Ravine

Crialoss Bistrot or the Quarry Resort lounge (reserve ahead) for cocktails overlooking the Rock Church and gorge as the stone glows gold.

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Food & Wine Tours

Tours with visits to old mills and tastings of Lucanian wines and cheeses.

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Spot the James Bond Locations

Spotting the No Time to Die filming locations (Via D'Addozio, Via Muro) while wandering the Sassi.

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Food & Dining

Signature Dishes

Orecchiette
The little ear-shaped pasta of the region.
Fave e Cicoria
Broad-bean purée with chicory — a Lucanian peasant classic.
Peperoni Cruschi
Crisp dried sweet peppers, fried until crackling.
Lamb & Caciocavallo
Local lamb dishes and the regional caciocavallo cheese.
Pane di Matera
The protected crusty, golden-crumbed Matera bread.

Restaurants

Vitantonio Lombardo
Michelin-starred and cited as "one of the best."
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Michelin
Baccanti
Refined Lucanian cooking in a cave setting.
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Fine dining
Ristorante Burro Salato
Modern takes on regional dishes.
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Modern
Regiacorte
Dining with Rock Church views.
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Views
Morgan Ristorante
Traditional Materan cooking.
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Traditional

Budget & Casual

Il Rusticone
Pizza and sandwiches on the cheap.
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Pizza
Uacciardidd
Cheap, non-touristy local food.
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Local
Panificio Quintano
Bakery for breakfast bakes and Pane di Matera.
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Bakery
Z/Zipa Cafe
Cocktails and cruschi peppers.
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Cocktails

Where to Stay

Signature · cave luxury

Luxury Cave Hotels

Sleeping in a cave hotel within the Sassi is the signature Matera experience — park outside and walk in (luggage transfers can be arranged).

  • Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita The original candle-lit cave-hotel, in restored grottoes of the Civita.
    Luxury · €€€€
  • Aquatio Cave Hotel & Spa A design-led cave hotel with an underground spa.
    Luxury · €€€€
  • Palazzo Gattini A noble palazzo hotel on Piazza Duomo with a spa.
    Luxury · €€€€
  • Quarry Resort Cave suites with a celebrated ravine-view lounge.
    Luxury · €€€€
  • Locanda di San Martino Cave rooms with the Thermae Romanae spa baths.
    Luxury · €€€
Mid-range · cave character

Mid-range Cave Stays

More affordable cave rooms and B&Bs scattered through the Sassi — some on the very streets where Bond filmed.

  • La Dimora delle 3 Zie Welcoming cave B&B in the Sassi.
    Mid-range · €€
  • B&B Al Convento Simple cave rooms near the Sasso Barisano.
    Mid-range · €€
  • Pietragialla Cave rooms on one of the Bond filming streets.
    Mid-range · €€
  • Stone Rooms Contemporary stone-and-cave rooms in the Sassi.
    Mid-range · €€
Budget · hostels & nearby

Budget & Nearby

Hostels in the Sassi, or cheaper bases in the surrounding towns for tighter budgets.

  • Ostello dei Sassi Budget beds right in the Sassi.
    Budget · hostel
  • Fra i Sassi Hostel Friendly hostel in the cave district.
    Budget · hostel
  • The Rock Hostel & nearby towns Plus cheaper bases nearby in Castellaneta, Massafra, or Altamura.
    Budget · €

Tip — Park outside the Sassi and walk in; reserve view-restaurants and sunset bars in advance.

Practical Notes

Getting There

  • By car: The simplest option — ~1 hr from Bari, ~3.5 hr from the Amalfi Coast via the A16 toll motorway, ~1 hr 15 min from Castelmezzano.
  • By transit: A train station exists but Basilicata's rail/bus network is sparse — Matera is most reliably reached from Bari.

Getting Around

  • On foot only: No vehicle access within the Sassi — wear sturdy shoes for the steep, uneven stone steps.
  • Parking: Use the lots outside the historic core.

When to Visit

  • Avoid high summer: Matera bakes (one source cites up to ~120°F/49°C on the exposed stone).
  • Best windows: Late April–May and September–October are ideal.

How Long & Booking

  • Two nights: Lets you do the Sassi, the museums, and the Murgia ravine hike properly.
  • Reserve ahead: Book view-restaurants and sunset bars in advance.

Notable Insights

Don't Miss

  • The definitive view: Earth Trekkers and The Geographical Cure both budget two nights and stress the Murgia Park ravine hike for the head-on Matera panorama.
  • Bond fame: Laura the Explorer leans into the city's No Time to Die celebrity.

Practical Contradictions

  • Summer heat: The recurring warning across sources is the heat on the exposed stone — shoulder seasons are strongly preferable.
  • A must on every itinerary: Every source treats Matera as unmissable.