An Overture
St. Moritz is the glamorous high-altitude resort of the Upper Engadine in Graubünden — a twin-lake town (Lake St. Moritz, Lake Silvaplana) ringed by 3,000 m peaks, famous for winter luxury (two Winter Olympics, the Cresta Run) and, increasingly, for spectacular autumn larch-foliage hiking. It is the eastern terminus of the Glacier Express and a gateway to the Bernina Express, making it a scenic-rail and Engadine-lakes base. The wider Engadine hides some of Switzerland's most under-touristed valleys (Fex, Val Poschiavo).
Top Things to Do
Upper Engadine Lakes
Lakes St. Moritz, Silvaplana, Champfèr and Sils — a chain of turquoise lakes with flat lakeside trails; Silvaplana is a world kite-/windsurfing spot.
Getting there: A lakeside path and PostBus line string the lakes (St. Moritz, Silvaplana, Sils) along the valley floor.
Summer hiking & winter sports
Cable cars (Corvatsch, Signal, Muottas Muragl) access high trails in summer and skiing/snowboarding/bobsledding in winter; "especially in fall, its beauty is ridiculous with all the fall foliage."
Glacier Express
The famed ~7.5 hr panoramic line to Zermatt; reservation mandatory on top of the Swiss Travel Pass.
Getting there: Departs St. Moritz station — the panoramic line to Zermatt (~8 hr).
Bernina Express
From nearby (Chur/Pontresina/St. Moritz) over the UNESCO Albula/Bernina line — 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, the Landwasser Viaduct, the Bernina Pass and down to palm-fringed Tirano, Italy.
Getting there: Departs St. Moritz over the Bernina Pass to Tirano, Italy (~4 hr).
Walks & Trails
Lake St. Moritz & Lej da Staz
A flat, easy walk from the resort around the turquoise Lake St. Moritz, then through the larch woods to the idyllic Lej da Staz, a warm little forest lake with a lakeside hut — the locals' summer swimming spot, with the Engadin peaks mirrored in the water.
St. Moritz → Lake St. Moritz shore → woodland path → Lej da Staz
Muottas Muragl Panorama Trail
The Engadin's grandest balcony walk: from the top of the Muottas Muragl funicular a high traverse past the Segantini hut runs above the whole chain of Engadin lakes toward Alp Languard (chairlift down to Pontresina), with the lakes and the Bernina massif spread out the entire way — unbeatable at sunset.
Muottas Muragl → Segantini hut → ridge above the Engadin lakes → Alp Languard
Day Trips & Beyond
Sils-Maria & the Fex Valley (hidden gem)
A car-free alpine valley that inspired Nietzsche; base at Sils-Maria.
Getting there: PostBus along the lakes to Sils (~15 min); horse carriages or a walk continue into car-light Val Fex.
SearchVal Poschiavo (hidden gem)
Southern, Italian-speaking Graubünden on the Bernina line — slow-paced, excellent espresso, the "100% Valposchiavo" local-produce ethos, and Lago di Saoseo; base in Poschiavo (Hotel Albrici). A 2-night stay at participating hotels can include free regional transport.
Getting there: The Bernina line over the pass to Poschiavo and Brusio, ~1 hr 30.
SearchLenzerheide
Alpine lakes (Heidsee), world-class biking and Switzerland's longest summer toboggan run, near Chur.
Getting there: ~1 hr 15 by car over the Julier Pass, or bus/train via Chur.
SearchPontresina & Diavolezza
High glacier viewpoints on the Bernina line.
Getting there: Train or bus to Pontresina (~15 min), then the Diavolezza cable car to 2,978 m glacier views.
SearchHidden Gems
Free public transport + cable-car offer
From mid-May to mid-October, staying 2+ nights at participating St. Moritz hotels includes free local public transport and access to ~13 cable cars — a major saving.
SearchAutumn larch season (late Sept–Oct)
The Engadine's larches turn gold — repeatedly called the region's most "ridiculous" beauty, with far fewer crowds than summer or ski season.
SearchCarriage into the Fex Valley
a car-free, timeless approach few travellers make.
Getting there: PostBus from St. Moritz to Sils-Maria (~15 min), then a horse-drawn carriage into the Fex Valley.
SearchFood & Dining
Local Flavours
High-end resort dining dominates St. Moritz; Engadine specialties include Capuns (chard-wrapped dumplings), Pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta) and Engadiner Nusstorte (caramel-walnut tart). Val Poschiavo is the spot for excellent Italian-Swiss espresso and slow food.
Where to Stay
- Luxury
- Mid-range
- Budget
- Luxury
- Mid-range
- Mid-range
- Mid-range
Tip — Book a participating hotel for the free transport/cable-car card (mid-May–mid-Oct, 2+ nights).
Practical Notes
Getting There & Around
- Getting there (no car): By scenic rail — the Glacier Express from Zermatt, or via Chur and the Albula/Bernina line; reservations required on the panoramic trains.
- Getting there (with car): Over high passes (Julier, Albula, Flüela, Bernina) — spectacular but seasonal; many close or require winter tyres/chains in the cold months.
- Getting around: The free hotel transport card (in season) plus cable cars cover the lakes and heights; Fex Valley is car-free (walk or carriage).
Good to Know
- Plan a minimum 2-night stay to unlock the free transport/cable-car offer (mid-May–mid-Oct).
- Autumn (larch foliage) and high summer are the sweet spots for hiking; the high passes here are the most weather-dependent in the country — check closures before driving.
- St. Moritz is pricey; the surrounding Engadine villages (Sils, Pontresina) and Val Poschiavo offer more value and authenticity.
Notable Insights
Consensus & Highlights
- Arzo Travels and the hidden-gems sources converge on the Engadine as Switzerland's most under-rated region for travellers willing to go east — the combination of two world-famous scenic trains (Glacier + Bernina), turquoise lake chains, Nietzsche's car-free Fex Valley and the secret-feeling Val Poschiavo gives it a different, quieter character from the Bernese Oberland and Valais.