An Overture
Nice is the capital of the French Riviera and the best all-round base on the Côte d'Azur. Its sweeping Baie des Anges, fronted by the palm-lined Promenade des Anglais, gives way to the warren of ochre lanes and bustling markets of Vieux Nice, while elegant Belle Époque boulevards recall the era when European aristocracy wintered here. The light that drew Matisse and Chagall still defines the city; both have museums in the leafy Cimiez hills. With an international airport, a tram network, and the Riviera's main rail line on its doorstep, Nice connects effortlessly to Monaco, Cannes, Antibes, Menton, and the hill villages — making it the obvious carless hub for the entire coast.
Top Things to Do
Promenade des Anglais
The iconic 7 km seafront promenade along the pebble beach; walk, cycle, or rent a chair at a private beach club.
Insider tip — Free; sunset and early morning are magic. The blue chairs are a Nice symbol.
Vieux Nice (Old Town)
A dense maze of baroque churches, ochre façades, gelato shops, and lively squares (Cours Saleya, Place Rossetti). The heart of the city's character.
Cours Saleya market
Flower and produce market by day (closed Mondays, when it becomes an antiques market), ringed by restaurants.
Insider tip — Mornings for the market; try socca from a stall.
Colline du Château (Castle Hill)
Parkland atop the headland with a waterfall and the finest panorama over the bay and old town.
Getting there — Stairs, a free elevator from the eastern end of the old town, or a small road.
Insider tip — Free; go for sunrise/sunset.
Musée Matisse & Musée Chagall
Two outstanding artist museums in the Cimiez district, set among Roman ruins and gardens.
Getting there — Bus or tram + walk to Cimiez.
Insider tip — Chagall's biblical cycle is a highlight.
Place Masséna & Promenade du Paillon
The grand red-arcaded central square and the linear park of fountains and mist jets linking the old town to the modern center.
Walking Tours
Historic Nice on Foot
A classic self-guided walk runs the Promenade des Anglais to the foot of Castle Hill, climbs for the panorama, descends into Vieux Nice's lanes (Place Rossetti, the cathedral, Cours Saleya), and returns via Place Masséna and the Promenade du Paillon park. Allow 2.5–3 hours. The tourist office and many operators run guided old-town food, history, and street-art walks; the Cimiez hill offers a separate art-and-Roman-ruins walk.
Hôtel Negresco / Promenade des Anglais → Jardin Albert 1er → Place Masséna → Cours Saleya market → Place Rossetti → Rue Droite (Vieux Nice) → Place Garibaldi → Rauba-Capeù seafront bend → Colline du Château viewpoint
Day Trips & Beyond
Èze
Medieval eagle's-nest village with an exotic garden. Getting there: Bus (line 82/602) up to the village, or train to Èze-sur-Mer plus the steep "Nietzsche path" climb.
SearchSaint-Paul-de-Vence & Vence
Hilltop art village and Matisse's Rosary Chapel. Getting there: Bus from Nice (line 400/655); ~1 hr.
SearchItaly (Ventimiglia / Menton border)
The Friday Ventimiglia market is a popular train day trip across the border.
SearchHidden Gems
Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Saint-Nicolas)
A jewel-box of onion domes, the largest Orthodox church outside Russia, recalling Nice's Russian aristocratic past.
SearchMont Boron
Forested headland with coastal trails and views over Villefranche; quiet and uncrowded.
Getting there — Bus or a walk uphill east of the port.
SearchLe Port (Lympia) & the antiques district
Nice's colourful working harbour and surrounding restaurants, away from the tourist crush.
SearchCoulée Verte / rooftop & hidden viewpoints
Beyond Castle Hill, the eastern Rauba-Capeù bend offers a sweeping bay panorama.
SearchSocca and farinata culture
Eating chickpea socca hot from the oven at Chez Pipo or a Cours Saleya stall is a quintessential Niçois ritual.
SearchFood & Dining
Pair with Bellet wine (Nice's own small appellation) or Provençal rosé.
Niçois cuisine is distinct: socca (chickpea pancake), salade niçoise, pan bagnat (tuna sandwich), pissaladière (onion-anchovy tart), petits farcis (stuffed vegetables), and ratatouille. Eat in Vieux Nice (away from the most touristy fronts for better value) and the port district. The Cours Saleya is good for atmosphere and produce. Gelato shops like Fenocchio (Place Rossetti) are a local institution.
Where to Stay
Each shaded circle marks one of the areas below, in its banner colour — tap a circle to open it in Google Maps.
Getting around — Trams (lines 1, 2, 3) and buses make the whole city easy; the center is very walkable.
Practical Notes
Getting There & Around
- Getting in (without a car): Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE), France's third busiest, links to the center via Tram Line 2 (~25 min to the port/center). Gare de Nice-Ville is the Riviera's rail hub, with frequent trains along the coast to Monaco, Menton, Cannes, Antibes, and onward to Italy and Marseille/Paris (TGV).
- Getting in (with a car): A8 ("La Provençale"); parking is expensive and traffic heavy — not recommended for a city stay.
- Getting around: Excellent tram network (3 lines) plus buses; flat-fare tickets and day passes. The center and seafront are walkable; bikes (Vélo Bleu) available.
- Tips: A car is a liability in Nice and along the coast — the train is faster, cheaper, and more scenic between Riviera towns. Buy a multi-trip or day transit pass. Use the tram from the airport rather than a taxi.
Good to Know
- Beaches are pebbly — bring or rent water shoes and a mat.
- Pickpockets work the Promenade, old town, trams, and station — stay alert with bags and phones.
- Summer (July–August) is hot, crowded, and pricey; May–June and September are ideal.
- Cours Saleya flower market is closed Mondays (antiques instead).
- Standard urban caution around the station and nightlife areas at night.
Notable Insights
Etiquette & Culture
- Nice has a strong Niçois identity (and dialect); a friendly "Bonjour" goes far. Beach clubs charge for loungers; public beach stretches are free.
Budget
- Cheap — socca and pan bagnat, free beaches and Castle Hill, the tram. Mid — Vieux Nice bistros. Luxury — Promenade palace hotels (Negresco) and beach clubs.
Timing
- Castle Hill at sunrise, markets mid-morning, the Promenade at golden hour. Use Nice as a hub and day-trip the coast by train to dodge driving and parking.
The Standout
- The view from Castle Hill over the terracotta old town, curving bay, and turquoise sea is the Riviera's signature panorama — and it's free.